One of the biggest mysteries in the jewelry industry is not knowing where our gemstones come from. Gemstones form all over the earth but when you purchase a crystal from a metaphysical shop, buy beads from a craft store or perhaps you use Etsy or some combination of resources to acquire any kind of gem your heart desires; Where do all the gems come from? They come from many places, all over the globe but why is it so hard to know the origin of our gems? Some locations are better than others at labeling localities. Is it because no one cares? Maybe it doesn’t matter? They certainly all can’t come from slave labor or corrupt governments. In my experience independent people, small businesses or artisans are the majority when it comes to sourcing gems. But why is it so hard to know where every specific gem comes from when we acquire them? Is it important?
What I understand, gemstones come from all over the world, are sought after by many, and distributed in many ways by many people. Most people I’ve met who sell gemstones are very down to earth. Some are spiritual, some are educational when it comes to gemstones. While being part of the industry, as what some may call an up & coming jewelry designer, I’ve noticed that there’s a slight divide between people who create with ‘base metals’ and those who create with ‘fine metals’. Some designers use all kinds of materials, a bit of each. The most apparent difference is the price between 'fine' materials and basically everything else. 'Fine' metal jewelry is a much higher price point because the materials cost more. This slight divide also manifests with ‘quality’ and type of gemstones used while designing. There’s another layer to this divide in which people and gemstones are exploited for profit because of the demand for these materials which are labeled as ‘fine’. Governments, royalty, military leaders, businesses, can become incredibly unjust when it comes to claiming Gold and Diamonds as their own, for example. Modern awareness of this murderous greed have become quite the topic of discussion in the jewelry industry, especially in the ‘Fine’ jewelry section of the industry where the 'fine' materials are in demand. At the moment there’s a call to action to be ‘responsible’, ‘ethical’, or to be transparent with your sourcing.
This kind of movement was easy to understand for me because I tapped into Fashion Revolution around 2016. At this time I stopped shopping for clothing in the retail environment. I made a conscious choice to thrift or swap for clothes. When I can, I support small local fashion designers. These kinds of topics have been at the forefront of my mind for many years and I’d wondered how to include these ideas into my jewelry design process. One way I did was by using beads donated to me over the years or buying thrifted to up-cycle.
The idea to be ‘ethical and responsible’ is definitely appealing but what does that mean for small businesses like Citrine Tangerine? Many people wonder what these terms even mean and if they really mean anything.
When I first studied this concept of ‘responsible jewelry design’ or sourcing, I can’t lie, I laughed at the hypocrisy! How can people who can afford gold and fine gemstones not question their own contribution to the demand? Not question their own destruction of the planet and its people? How can you claim to be ethical but want to work with materials that people are being exploited for across the globe!? But after another moment I asked myself how could I possibly be ‘ethical’ or ‘responsible’ if I am sourcing materials that are destructively plucked from the earth? At this point I’d stumbled into a full blow existential crisis. I have to stop making jewelry! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
After calming down and returning to my rational mind, I decided quitting is not an option. How can I be ‘ethical’ and ‘responsible’ while sourcing my materials? Thinking more deeply about it is a great first step! I took another step forward in 2019 when Craig and I drove out to New York to teach ourselves how to mine for gemstones that are native to this land mass. We were inspired by The Crystal Collector and a few other videos we saw online of people cracking open rocks to discover sparkly double terminated quartz. I also don't use 'fine' quality gemstones at this time, which helps keeps costs down for everyone and doesn't contribute to the greed affiliated with 'fine' graded gemstones. We took another step when we learned that drilling holes in gemstones is NOT an easy task. This experimentation resulted in a tremendous respect for those who make beads and cut stones. And another step forward when deciding to source gemstones from independent miners, businesses, and people.
It’s not always easy to make this choice. The price of materials greatly increases but in my opinion it's totally worth it when you can connect with trustworthy businesses. I think it also has to do with how far the materials have traveled and how many people they moved through before you find them. A few times I've felt completely disregarded by people who source and sell 'responsible & ethical' gemstones. It feel like some businesses won't give me the time of day! It's very strange but I suppose there are unprofessional people every where! Who knows why. To be honest, I assume it’s because I don’t work in ‘fine’ metals or gemstones that cost me thousands of dollars to purchase. I'm hesitant to work in these materials because it's so hard to 'ethically' source them. I also don't have a market for pieces that cost $1,000 + yet. Maybe in another 5 years or so! I am VERY GRATEFUL for the new connections I do have now and those who have been kind enough to connect with me through Citrine Tangerine. Ultimately I use this movement as inspiration and a way to grow stronger and get better at what I do. My dreams are to be a respected and adored gemstone jewelry company. I don't think there is any respect in not bringing issues of this industry into the awareness of our industry and people who purchase them. Especially if we understand that each gem has energy. A lot of people, including myself, tap into the vibration of gemstones for healing and to enhance our experience in life. I want to know where my gems come from and I'd honestly prefer to source the directly from people or with my own two hands from the earth.
To me, creating in small batches and sourcing gemstones from individuals is one of the most ‘responsible’ and ‘ethical’ ways to be. Especially because we live in a capitalist society where we can’t stop making or spending money and gigantic corporations have endless amounts of cash to silence any unwanted noise. When we support small and independent business, we are cultivating a global community. It’s the mass purchasing of fine gems, the land snatching of gem rich lands from people that’s truly the problem. If we don’t know where our gems come from, how can we be sure that they were not mined in an inhuman way? I honestly have no idea other than I don't purchase controversial and 'fine' grade gemstones such as Diamonds, Emeralds, and Rubies. I'll purchase the raw quality of them though which are not as highly valued or sought after by corrupted people & companies. I know a lot of gemstones in the USA are purchased whole sale from gigantic global events such as ‘The Tuscan Gem Show’. I’ve never had the opportunity to go. But some day! There are an abundance of gemstones you can mine for or source yourself right here in the USA.
I know that mining for gemstones is not easy at all. It’s definitely not as pleasant as walking on the beach searching for different colors or interesting details. We’ve traveled to NY to get our hands dirty mining for gemstones, two years in a row, soon to be three years. It’s not easy to do this kind of work and some times you don’t find anything!! This experience makes me feel so much more for the humans who mine for the gemstones available on the market today. It seems the people who extract our gemstones from the earth are the least of anyone’s concern in the supply chain. The folks involved in the mining, faceting, and bead making end of the process definitely deserve a fair wage! This also leads me into another question:
Who is making our beads? How deep should we go back into the supply chain? Should we always assume people shaping our beads are underpaid or working unsafely? While attending a conference about creating a ‘responsible’ jewelry industry, I was made aware of an illness called silicosis. This illness comes from breathing in silicates when drilling into or faceting gemstones. To my understanding, there are two ways; wet and dry. The wet method includes water, which greatly reduces, if not removes the silicates from flying through the air. The dry method is yes, without water, and the particles of silicates fly through the air. Without proper facial covering, you are at risk of breathing these silicates in, resulting in a painful lung illness that will eventually lead to death depending on your length of exposure. Once learning about this my first though is, OKAY I’ll make my own beads. But like I mentioned before, drilling into stones is no easy task. There are proper machines and procedures for these kinds of tasks. The equipment requires space, and is expensive! There are people who've been creating gemstone beads for many years. It’s impossible for me to think I could acquire all the equipment, learn these processes, and source my own rough in any kind of short period of time. There are other ways to make beads as well.
Who are we to assume all gemstone bead companies are unsafe and putting workers at risk? How could we possibly know? Being aware of the potential abuses and risks associated with our supply chain is definitely important. But painting a picture that all beads come from abusive working conditions is wrong and potentially damaging to the people who are independently creating or businesses who aren’t harmful to people. The important aspect of this is to make sure we are more conscious of our buying choices and doing research to make better choices. One person I trust for global information exposing the truths of exploitation in the gem industry is Yianni Melas aka GEMEXPLORER. Definitely worth following on instagram.
What am I doing to contribute to some small amount of change with my limited capital and resources? I mentioned a few things above but let me reiterate! For the past two years I’ve sourced gems from localities in the USA with my own to hands. Craig and I are heading out on another adventure to source gemstones ourselves this year too. Cracking rocks open with sledge hammers and chisels. We are hoping to go to another couple locations in the USA to mine this year too. I am making choices to source gems from companies like Anza Gems, who source from women in Africa. We've also sources from a small independent mine located in Brazil called Nature's Geometry. Glenn Lehrer and his story of being a self taught gem carver is also an influence in my works. I’m creating much smaller amounts of jewelry, purchasing less material, and sourcing with intention. I am also educating myself on the jewelry industry, its issues, and thinking of ways we can advance. Another way to be more mindful while designing is to remake old jewelry or use beads from old broken jewelry or thrifted jewelry. Do any ideas come to your mind? I’d love to start a conversation with you about these topics but I understand if these topics are not your cup of tea! Maybe you feel like this post has no information and just kind of went in a circle? Welcome to my world! It is hard to know when gems are moving so quickly from person to person across the globe!
What are my goals for the future? To travel through out the USA to source all kinds of gemstones available to us here. Over time extending our sourcing to other localities internationally. I’d also love to find people to directly work with for sourcing/creating beads. This would be a powerful partnership. I want to learn how to make my own beads and acquire space / equipment to make my own beads. On the topic of space I’m looking to open a space that would house my jewelry studio and is a retail space for gemstones, jewelry, and classes.
While staying in Utica, we discovered there was not much to do, so we ventured to nearby cities to discover good eats, fine art, and explore. One of these explorations days we found ourselves in Syracuse, NY. What brought us here exactly? Donuts and good coffee. As any great day starts, we pulled up to a donut spot called Glazed and Confused. Then we headed to get a fresh coffee at Cafe Kubal just around the corner. I purchased a bag of coffee beans, Ethiopia Aricha, for later and we ate our sweet treats while drinking freshly made coffee beverages.
Next we wandered around the area, discovering several fantastic local shops. After window shopping for a while we found ourselves in Clinton Square. Named after DeWitt Clinton who was the 6th governor of New York and largely responsible for the construction of the Erie Canal. Clinton Square has a gigantic sculpture, Soldiers and Sailors monument, honoring Civil War Veterans. This is a gathering place for thousands of people through out the year where many seasonal festivals and celebrations take place. The Erie Canal used to come through Syracuse to this location in the 1800s but was later filled in.
Before we left this area of Syracuse for lunch we HAD to visit the spectacular architecture of the Niagara Mohawk Building. It is an Art Deco Classic style building that used to be head quarts to Niagara Mohawk Power Company but is now a National Register of Historic Places as the Niagara Hudson Building. The architecture is absolutely stunning. Talk about attention to detail.
For lunch we ventured over to a highly sought after restaurant called Phoebe's. What lured us here were the many excellent reviews and the elegant interior. Phoebe's lived up to the reviews too! The food was delicious, Freshly made, and healthy! If you are ever in Syracuse, I recommend making a reservation here. Their pricing is incredibly fair and they have a coffee bar too! We did not try the coffee bar but maybe someday we will be back to try it.
Of course we could not go to Syracuse without investigating their art museum. We were pleased to find out Everson Museum of Art was open. Our temperatures were taken at the door and we were asked a couple of questions before entering. Admission was discounted because of the pandemic, we happily paid. It looked like there were a few areas under renovation but being in the building was participating in art already! Everson was designed by the world renowned I. M. Pei! Their new structure was opened to the public in 1968, gifted to the city by Helen Everson. Syracuse's art museum was founded in 1857 by William Fisk Comfort, an art historian who also helped bring us the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Before Emerson Museum of Art was built and opened, nearly 100 years prior, the art museum was held in several local locations. I believe that Everson only collects American art.
Over all we had a lovely day in Syracuse but we only spent about 6/7 hours there. I bet there is a lot more to discover. What we did see, we loved. I hope you enjoy all the pictures.
This year has been blowing with the wings of change. Between the pandemic and political campaigns, I am MOONSTRUCK. How can I experience vertigo from sitting so still? The only thing keeping me sane right now are small businesses and creatives! It's ALSO that batshit time of year where as an American culture, we mash a ton of western commercialized 'holidays' together to sell corporate products.
The silver lining is a lot of talented and passionate beings have had the opportunity to put their life energy into their personal businesses. I've had a blast adorning myself and personal spaces with items that creatives have to offer. Like I said above, this kind of support has been the only thing giving me life energy besides creating myself. WE can choose to spend our money differently this year and years to come. When we create new shopping habits we help build a community of small businesses. Let's consistently support small business, so they can actually GROW.
Citrine Tangerine's Small Business Shopping List:
I have to start with Citrine Dream! The candles and body products are non-toxic and made with gratitude! I highly recommend the candles and body scrubs specifically from here. Treat Yourself.
Glenn Lehrer is an obvious choice to share with you because he is a self taught gem carver from the US. We met a couple years ago at Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference. His fine jewelry is available for a variety of price points. I am particularly fond of his Sterling Silver Collection.
Polymer clay creations are all the rage but something about Baublebee Handmade speaks to me. The level of creativity in the colors and textures are truly exciting. Plus these designs are just so dang cute!
Daisy Illustrations creates colorful art that you need to fill your space with! Cover your laptop and notebooks with stickers, purchase prints, or contact her directly for custom portraits. I've got a portrait she made from a couple years ago hanging on my wall. Who doesn't love stickers or personalized art?
Huckleberry Roasters is where I get my daily coffee beans from. I am a huge fan of their beans specifically their single origin flavors! YUM! This is one coffee roaster that has my vote. They are informed about their products and are creating a global community through the love of coffee. Respect!
Can you guess what my favorite thing to collect is? CRYSTALS! Treefort Bizaare is my go to spot for gems! They seem to be the crystal plug when it comes to any jewels you desire. Life is better with gemstone friends!
When the lockdown began, the most devastating blow was losing the ability to travel. Recircle Home is a destination mystic shop in Long Beach, CA. They keep odd hours but when you do finally catch the shop while it's open, it's pure delight. There is a small online shop available but if you have the chance to put yourself in the building, I highly recommend it.
That's all I've got for now. I can't share all of my secrets but I will say two other things. Reading has been a fabulous way to escape the fatigue of being indoors. I know it might be hard to get yourself started but when you do get into a good book it will feel so good to mentally go somewhere else... TRUST ME.
Lastly, if you haven't already, please check out the two collections I've released this year. I know I've been putting a lot of focus on jewelry these last couple years. It's because I am truly passionate about gemstones and creating jewelry collections as Citrine Tangerine brings a lot of my talents together in a very satisfying way. Jewelry design just might be that one skill that I could not live without. It brings me so much joy. Thank you. Shop small.
Little Falls, NY is a fantastic get away about 30 minutes from Utica. I can't speak on the food there, even though there are a few restaurants in the area, They do have a couple fabulous shops to check out. Most notably Fall Hill Bead & Gem and a couple fairly large antique shops. If you ever get the chance to check this city out, I hope it's on a day the shops are open! Here are a couple of the views we had in Little Falls, NY.
Here are a few colorful edits I made of the photos from Little Falls. If you are interested in prints just contact me. <3
A sweet home away from home; Utica, NY. Craig and I went on a short excursion to New York state to mine for crystals direct from the source. Last year we spent a little time in Utica and decided this year to stay for a week. Our comfortable airbnb had fantastic natural light and luscious green plants. You can see the location we stayed in gave me a lot of photographic inspiration.
The city of Utica is small but there is quite a bit to do in the area if you take the time to look around. We stayed in a friendly neighborhood near historical Utica Psychiatric Center aka New York State Lunatic Asylum at Utica. The asylum was opened in 1843 and was the first state run facility for the mentally ill. The building is MASSIVE but was supposed to be much larger according to the original plans. When you stand outside of this structure you are certain to be amazed by its size and the plainness of the concrete. Usually when you see Greek Revival in architecture, you expect embellishments, statues, and fabulous details splattered across the exterior. Not here. This place is award winning in minimalist details. Which sets the precedent for the style of Utica, there is next to no fashion here.
It’s surprising considering the first director of the asylum believed labor was essential for curing mental illness and had hospital residents gardening, writing, and doing needle works. I’d expect to see more gardens, literature, and paintings throughout the city. But with a new mega hospital being built bringing together three smaller local hospitals, it appears residents may not be a fan of the funding pumped into the medical industry by the the state. Which is also forcing residents to pay for such a massive build. (#Nohospitaldowntown) I can see why there is not more art or local business around.
Beyond the hospitals there is a lively coffee spot that is adored by locals. Utica Coffee Roasting Company seems to be the most hip location between the older downtown and newer commercial side of Utica. When the doors are open, you can bet there is a small crowd of people there, drinking coffee, conversing or getting work done. They have an awesome selection of locally roasted coffees and the staff is always cheerful. Our favorite spot to drink coffee is outside on the patio right next to the building. Free parking and great vibes!
There is also a surprising amount of well made international cuisine here. We ate Chinese, Indian and Italian while in Utica. All our food was scrumptious. I’d say our favorite spot to eat is Chinese food by Beijing House. We recommend the Crab Rangoon, Sweet & Sour Chicken, and any of their fried rice. Their Lo Mein and Chow Mein are also legit. Minar Indian Cuisine is also highly recommended by both Craig and myself. If you’re looking for American food and/or brunch we recommend finding your way to Top Of The Morning. This spot is only open until the early afternoon so ‘Wake The Hell Up!’ with Utica Coffee Roasting Company then head over to Top of The Morning Cafe well before 2pm because they are busy.
So maybe coffee, brunch, and early starts aren’t your thing. You should go to Woodland Farm Brewery. It’s just outside of Utica on a secluded plot of land. Their location has yummy bar food, Plenty of indoor and outdoor seating as well as delicious alcoholic beverages. Their home made beers are what I recommend.
The real reason we travel to Central New York, is to hand pick quartz crystals for our jewelry making. After attending the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference, I’ve been more conscious about where my gemstones and beads come from. Craig and I discovered that there is a rare quartz variety that comes from this region of the US. Last year we trekked out to see if we, as noobs, could actually mine for them with our own two hands. Turns out we could. This is our second trip that we hope to make annual. Who knowns though, we could end up in a different state next year looking for other mineral varieties.
This time around we checked out two different mining locations and returned to a small bead and crystal shop in little falls. (I’ll get to that spot in the next blog post! More about the stones!) The most well known name for this quartz variety is ‘Herkimer Diamonds’. While these are Quartz minerals are not Diamonds, some argue that ‘ Herkimer Diamonds’ are more beautiful and more rare than real diamonds. This quartz variety is rare because of its crystal clear coloring and its double terminated crystal forms. What does this mean? The gemstones in their finest quality are so clear, you can see right through them and it is said they actually enhance your vision. The double termination means there are points on both sides of the crystal! (most crystals are pulled off the wall of their matrix, so there is one point.) The formations of ‘Herkimer Diamonds’ are quite striking when you find them. You really do need to see it to believe it.
About the Author
Hi, My name is Citrine, I love to paint and make jewelry. I love gemstones, traveling, style, fine art, and making delicious food. I live by optimism and gratitude. My foundation is creative exploration, self portraiture, and photography. It is my destiny to inspire and create a sense of joy through entrepreneurship.